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Day 2, Panzano ➡Greve ➡San Polo ➡ Radda in Chianti

Let the games begin

After we had finished shooting our day one intros, we ate dinner at a nearby restaurant with members of the production team and crew and spent the night at Rosso del Chianti, Marina Cecchini’s charming b&b in the heart of Panzano.

I am an early riser and had gotten up at dawn to prepare, psychologically and otherwise, for our first full day of shooting and activities. I packed everything up and gingerly and quietly carried my bags down several flights of stairs. I lived in a third floor walkup for 20 years, it’s a skill I mastered long ago.

I had slept well and happily chatted with Marina while I tried to force some breakfast down. I was feeling better now that I had met everyone with whom I’d be working in the coming days, but anxiety is a constant in my life, and today was no exception.

When I worked for Stanford, I took groups of students on scores of trips, all over Italy, more than I can count or recall. For this reason, I’d like to think that what I lacked in film and tv experience I made up for by being a good group traveler.

I tried always to be the first one ready and waiting, punctual and observant, because I am deeply respectful of the time and work of others. I worried most about wasting people’s time, having to do multiple takes because of an error I might make, thus extending our already long shooting schedule because of my inexperience.

I attempted, whenever I was able, to carry my own suitcases (I somehow missed the fact that one of them should have been small and empty, just for show purposes). Sometimes it wasn’t logistically possible and they magically appeared in my room at the end of the day. I apologize for that. They were quite heavy because, in addition to multiple wardrobe choices that I had to make for the unknown, there were kilos of makeup, hair and skin products, small appliances, good luck charms, a since misplaced yoga mat, and a veritable pharmacy packed in them.

I like to come prepared, and on the morning of day 2, our first full day of shooting, I quickly adopted my typical den mother role, offering everyone mints and throat lozenges, a tissue, a wipe, lending an ear and a hand when I could.

A tavola

We arrived in Piazza Matteotti, Greve in Chianti’s main square. I have spent a lot of time here over the years, eating, attending wine tastings and checking out the markets held in this charming space, so it felt good and natural to be there. I was happy that Gregorio’s choice for lunch was the Ristorante Giovanni Da Verrazzano, a family-run restaurant and hotel that has been around since the Middle Ages. 

I don’t want to burst anybody’s reality tv bubble but I would like to give some context. We were at every venue for long stretches, there was dead time, lots of cameras always pointing at you, lights shining on you. The entire first day, especially while at table, I was extremely uncomfortable the whole time we shot and was entirely clueless about what was going on around me.

For those who have not seen the show, I come off as being very critical, especially of food, so I want to give a bit of background there as well.

Not only do I come from a long line of excellent cooks, I can hold my own in the kitchen and cooking is one of my great passions. For those readers who might not know, my life partner, Luca is a chef, an extremely talented one, who has spoiled me. The bar is very high for me and for my clients, but I am far kinder than I come off on TV. I live and breathe the hospitality industry every day and hold those who work in the field in the highest regard. I also believe that my first “real” job, as a waitress when I was 16 years old, taught me everything I know about people and professionalism. I highly recommend that every young person spend some time working the industry and that we all show our appreciation and gratitude often. Stepping off my soapbox now.

Along for the Ride

Notwithstanding the rather low score I gave to the activity, ahem, I really loved Gregorio’s choice of driving through the Tuscan hills on quads (Francesco and Gregorio) and a dune buggy (Emanuela with me in the driver’s seat).

I mentioned that the production team had asked many questions, some of which I realize, in retrospect, were probably meant to lead me astray, but the one thing I knew for certain is that I would be driving something. I was asked about my boat and other vehicle driving skills and was reminded the day before leaving that I should bring my license.

I have done a tiny bit of off-roading in the past, certainly never with a GoPro camera attached to my sideview mirror and a crew filming in front, behind, and above me, so I was somewhat prepared for the bumpiness, dips and ascents, the arresting beauty that greets when you turn a sharp corner.

What I was not expecting was to enjoy it as much as I did. I laughed sincerely, faced my fears, and, immersed in that magnificent countryside, I felt free.

At a certain point, drops of sharp, cold rain hit me in the face and it was glorious, liberating, fun. We stopped for a snack in the midst of the hills of San Polo, munching on delicious cheese and salami, sipping Chianti, starstruck spectators watching as Florence revealed her gorgeous face to us just as the mist lifted and the sun began to shine again.

The entire experience left me wondering when I let my adventurous self disappear and why I don’t take her out more often for a ride.

To sleep, perhaps to dream

I fell hard for Podere Terreno. The minute I stepped foot on the property, smack in the middle of an impossibly beautiful Tuscan landscape, I felt welcomed, when I walked inside, I felt at home.

Imagine a 14th century farmhouse, now a winery and agriturismo, serving up the some of the best food and wine that the area of Radda in Chianti offers us. You get a sense of it on the show when we are all in front of the fire and Cristina brings us a snack of pane, zucchero e vino, a merenda that all my Tuscan friends grew up eating, and pane e olio, washed down with a glass of their Chianti Classico. Perfection. What you don’t see is the incredible dinner we ate, authentic delicious, generous food prepared with amore, and an evening spent in the company of each other, the owners, some crew members and a young couple from France that was staying there.

My room was the perfect refuge after an intense day. I especially appreciated the silence, stunning view outside my window and my gorgeous wood sleigh bed.

After getting everything in order for day 3, and packing once again, I got into bed, and perhaps got two pages into my book before succumbing to sleep.

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